Smoky Ash Blonde Ombré Balayage
Before
My hair guest was searching for a dramatic hair transformation that would feel lived-in and bold.
The ASK (Consultation Notes):
The guest provided Pinterest references photos that made her request very simple, each photo had a dropped rootage and a bold ombré effect
The guest had some heat-damage on portions of her mids and ends so maintenance of her hair’s integrity was paramount
She requested a lived-in look to be as lived-in as possible, essentially ensuring that no foils touched her rootage or fringe/bangs
The Placement:
4 quadrant sections on each side of her head that were as proportional and balanced as possible
The fringe/bangs area was sectioned away
All of the guest’s end lengths were lifted
The Formula:
(1:2) Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 15 Volume Developer
(1:2) Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 20 Volume Developer
(1:2) Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 25 Volume Developer
(1:2) Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 30 Volume Developer
(1:1) Rusk Deep Shine Gloss Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 7A
(1:1) Rusk Deep Shine Gloss Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 8A
(1:2) Kenra Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 3N
(1:2) Kenra Demi-Permanent Hair Color in Gloss
The Tools and Styling Products:
Wooden paddle for balayage
Cooboard for perfect saturation
Joico Defy Damage PRO Series 1 and 2 Bond Protecting and Building System
Brilliance New York Curling Wand 4-in-1 (4 pieces) Glam Setter Digital Clip-less Curling Iron
The Technique and Process:
The guest’s hair was pre-treated with Joico Defy Damage PRO Series 1 Bond Builder Spray for even lift and protection.
I started with Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 15 Volume at the front facing panels. I foiled the front of the head with fine to medium sliced teasy-light pieces using YS Park 102 Tailcomb/Foiling Comb and Framar Triple Threat Set Brushes. and foiled away all sections with Framar 5x11 Star Struck Silver Foils.
I applied the lightener with a back-and-forth emphasis from each section so that the hair lifted evenly until I reached the parietal ridge/halfway point of the front of the head.
I switched to Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 20 Volume and continued to back-and-forth teasey-light until I reached the top of the head.
I added in hand painted pieces with my Framar Triple Threat Set Brushes and wooden balayage paddle to all of the ends that were left out of the slices to ensure as much impact as possible. The guest’s main desire was impact so that is why the front facing panels and pieces were the focal point of our work.
Every piece of hair that was foiled was fully saturated thanks to Cooboard! I love using this board as it helps with technical accuracy.
I then switched to Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 20 Volume and continued to apply the lightener with a back-and-forth emphasis from each back section until reaching the occipital bone.
A new formulation of Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 25 Volume Developer was applied to her hair from the occipital bone to the very top of the head.
I completed her application with hand painted pieces featuring Schwarzkopf Blonde Me Bond Enforcing Lightener and 30 Volume Developer so that all foils were able to lift evenly.
A pop-up was placed on her and she processed for 45 minutes without heat.
I checked the foils to ensure a clean level 9 lift, I removed the foils and then shampooed her hair with Olaplex no 4 and lightly dried with Dyson Supersonic to prepare for toner application.
Kenra Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 3N was applied to her entire rootage, even fringe/bang area for extra gloss and shine, at the blend point where the rootage and foils meet, Kenra Demi-Permanent Hair Color in Gloss was transitioned to ensure a perfect blend.
Rusk Deep Shine Gloss Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 7A and Rusk Deep Shine Gloss Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 8A were applied with a 2:1 emphasis. For every two sections with Rusk Deep Shine Gloss Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 8A, one section was colored with Rusk Deep Shine Gloss Demi-Permanent Hair Color in 7A. All ends were left out for later processing.
The main colors were processed for 20 minutes, with the ends being applied during the last 10 minutes for brightness.
The guest was shampooed with Olaplex no 4, conditioned with Joico Defy Damage PRO Series 2 Bond Builder Masque, and Olaplex no 5 conditioners.
Her hair was cut and styled with a smooth, voluminous blowout and waves that lasted for days.
* Comment here or on Instagram if you want to learn how to get this finished style!
After
Hair by Victoria Waang / @victoriashairsecret
Do you love her hair or do you love it?
Seriously, we had so much fun creating this look and it truly suits the guest’s daring personality. Have you tried a fashion colour before? What’s stopping you? Go for it! Summer is the perfect time to try a bold beauty and/or fashion statement. Fall is the time to refine it.
Comment here or DM on socials if you’re interested in your own personalized haircut, colour, or style!
If you’re a hairstylist — only double book between guests where you know you can exceed expectations. Leaving someone waiting without an assistant is a sure fire way to lose a guest, parts of their hair, or both. (More on that later, but remember it’s about quality, not quantity!)
As a disclaimer: This is not a paid post. I use all of these products on my guests.