Catching up With Naheemah Azor | Apparel Designer Behind New Serena Williams Design Crew x Nike Collection
We last spoke with Naheemah Azor in September 2020. At that time, she was starting her advanced degree at FIDM, the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. You can read our former interview here. Although much has changed since then, Naheemah's unwavering determination has remained the same. She is still as visionary as the day I met her, and her passion for life and innovative design continues to impress. Today, we catch up with her to celebrate the launch of Serena Williams Design Crew (SWDC) x Nike, Spring 2024 Collection. SWDC is a Nike collective founded by the legendary tennis player Serena Williams. Each cohort of designers comes from a different region of the United States and has 6 to 9 months to create collections for Williams. Naheemah is a member of the 3rd cohort located in and around Los Angeles. She has spent over two years working on this project. Without further ado, let's catch up with the fearless designer Naheemah Azor!
Your collection for Serena Williams Design Crew (SWDC) x NIKE is launching, how does it feel to be wrapping up after months of designing and planning?
@looksbynaheemah: “In 1 word thrilling, and in another: a relief. This process started over 2 years ago and it felt like a big secret that I shared with a small group of people and now getting to share that with the world is exciting. I really hope the world likes what they see.”
What is your job title for the SWDC x NIKE Collection?
@looksbynaheemah: “My official title was apparel design apprentice and as I continued on with Nike, it evolved to also include accessories color designer for the collection.”
Can you walk us through the design process and initial inspiration for the collection? How did it evolve as the project developed?
@looksbynaheemah: “This collection started out with the concept of how we, the Los Angeles cohort, bring LA to the world. Los Angeles not only means so much to each one of the design crew members, but is also Serena’s hometown where she got her start. As you can imagine, 13 designers coming together to design 1 collection can be a challenge, but as we got to understand each other's strengths and lean on those, the ideas started to flow. We used a combination of digital mood boarding, physical brainstorming, strategy meetings, and combing through Serena’s history like it was the most important project of our life because it was. We came up with an initial pitch that we had the honor to present to Serena in person in West Palm Beach, Florida. We got amazing feedback, inspiring stories from the GOAT herself, and thus the designs evolved from there. Over the subsequent months, it was a lot of ideation, refining, presentations, and further editing that led us to the final presentation with Serena. That’s where the end of the 6 month apprenticeship ended, but as I got hired on full time at Nike I was able to follow my work into the prototyping phase. Any designer knows that once you get those first samples back, it’s truly make or break. I am so thankful I was there in those fit sessions as I was able to advocate for bodies of a wide array of sizes and I got that hands-on experience seeing a collection from it’s infancy to maturation.”
What were your key responsibilities for the collection?
@looksbynaheemah: “I was responsible for co-designing the apparel product across two seasons: Spring 2024 and Fall 2024 in which I took point for Spring specifically. This includes creating mood boards, storytelling, hand sketching, prototyping and 3D modeling, technical flats, creating proto requests (tech packs), selecting fabrics and trims, conducting fittings, and of course presenting all that work in a concise manner. For my color design work for the accessories in the collection I had a range of responsibilities to get the product to the finish line which includes: color design, print and graphic design, consulting on materials, sample reviews, 3D modeling, and more.”
How would you describe the defining moment of the collection?
@looksbynaheemah: “There was a particular week that I remember being incredibly intense. We started the week with a set of ideas and the collection came out on the other side differently than we had initially thought but ultimately it was the right way to go. The great part about this program is having great leaders and mentors to provide feedback and guide us through moments like this. It clicked that it was necessary when we were talking through our muses for the collection, the key muse being Serena of course, and we could really see them wearing and styling each piece to their heart's content. It was a great reminder that we design for the people who will wear and enjoy our products at the end of the day and that’s what matters most.”
Which pieces from the collection are you most excited about or proud of? Why?
@looksbynaheemah: “It’s so hard to pick just one as they each mean so much to me and I appreciate each design because I learned so much by creating them. That being said, I have to say I am especially proud of the 3 in 1 trench coat. Boy was I on a journey with that one! It was the first piece that I without a shadow of a doubt knew I wanted to design for Serena. It’s also the most technically challenging as it has so many features, moving parts, and design details that tell a story. I had to fight tooth and nail for it every step of the way as there were so many challenges that made people think a simpler style might be less of a headache. That being said, I am proud for believing in it as my hero piece for the collection, what it taught me about advocating for my work, and for the evolution that it has taken. From the initial chatter about the collection, I would have to say the challenge paid off.”
How were you able to incorporate your design ethos into a highly collaborative team-based endeavor?
@looksbynaheemah: “When working as a part of a team, the key to success is knowing when to lead and knowing when to be led. As we got to know eachother better as designers and as people, we were able to play into each other's strengths which led to some amazing work. I was able to bring in my Bay Area flare through connecting music and fashion culture and where there was overlap in LA culture. One of those key features is the idea of adornment, we wanted to bring luxury to this collection and I saw that through the chain necklaces, bamboo earrings, and hair accessories that I saw growing up. I incorporated hints of those throughout the collection: metal aglets, chain on the trench and pants, metal swoosh snaps, and the metal zipper puller on the bodysuit and skirt that looks like a hoop earring. Metal is definitely a signature of mine so you will continue to see that in my work. Another signature is the idea of transformation. I am passionate about inclusive design and sustainability and one of the main ways to incorporate that practically is allowing the wearer to customize their look so they can get more use [out] of it. Thus the trench isn’t just a fly coat, it unzips at the waist to become a cropped jacket and a skirt. The pants are a fun pair of straight leg pants, but when you unsnap the pleat at the ankle, it flares open for an extra wide leg look. There are some other ways to evolve the pieces in the collection, but I’ll leave those a surprise to discover as you wear the collection.”
What types of materials, colors, and prints did you prioritize using?
@looksbynaheemah: “One of our motto’s for this collection was the idea of comfort meets luxury, so we kept that in mind every step of the way. I had a huge task of selecting the materials for the apparel which is the bulk of the collection and covers the most surface area on the body. Thus I had to ensure the fleece was super soft and added in satin lining for that added luxurious feel. I also considered how the wearer would move throughout the day while wearing pieces that hung closer to the body so dri-fit materials were important. I collaborated with our amazing apparel color designer, Mesharay Findley, and apparel graphics designer, Tiffany Vega, to bring this collection to life through their bold use of color and graphics. It was important for me to consider how color showed up on the materials I selected and provide blank canvases such as the back of the hoodie for amazing airbrush artwork.”
What was meeting Serena Williams like?
@looksbynaheemah: “Meeting Serena was a surreal experience. It was like woah, this is the woman I have looked up to since I was a little kid. This is the person that motivated me to play tennis and have the confidence to know I could be great at anything I put my mind into. She was very nice, insightful, and it was such a welcoming environment to ask her questions and have conversations. A core memory for sure.”
Were there any references to Williams’ illustrious tennis history that particularly inspired you?
@looksbynaheemah: “Absolutely. Serena’s on court fashion is so iconic, I knew I wanted to make nods to her looks as well as the sport in general in this collection. Throughout the collection, we incorporated curvilinear lines to mimic that of a tennis ball. There’s an iconic picture of Serena wearing a trench coat while playing and that really inspired me to push the limits with this collection. Additionally, because a pleated skirt is such an iconic silhouette in the sport, I decided to do my take on it for the everyday, on-the-go woman who would love having those built-in shorts and hidden pockets under her flowy skirt.”
How about NIKE heritage? Was there a specific era of NIKE heritage that you wanted to tap into?
@looksbynaheemah: “We were focused on the future with this collection and wanted to push the boundaries of where Nike could go. That being said, sport was always in our minds and how Nike has been a part of LA fashion culture was also a point of reference.”
Favorite NIKE sneaker? Why?
@looksbynaheemah: “That's a tough one. My favorite that I own is the Jacquemus x Nike Air Humara’s. I have almost every color of them and they are well loved. The perfect blend of style and comfort.”
Do you have any behind-the-scenes stories or surprising influences that went into designing the collection?
@looksbynaheemah: “There are a lot, but one that comes to mind was the inspiration behind the lace-up hoodie design. I, as a black woman who loves beauty products, have had a love/hate relationship with hoodies my whole life. The neck, which was always too constricting, messed up my makeup, the hoods were too small for my variety of hairstyles, and the list can go on. So when I met Serena she had the same gripes with a hoodie as well. I just thought: bingo! This can’t continue to go on without someone attempting to solve it. The lace-up hoodie features an oversized, satin lined hood for hair protection, low profile pockets, and jumbo laces and eyelets that are not only stylish but allow you to expand or tighten the neck opening as you please.”
Were there any particular constraints or challenges in designing for such an iconic personality and brand?
@looksbynaheemah: “When you're designing for such big names, there can be an element of imposter syndrome that comes up. I stated this throughout the program though, that because these big names chose me out of hundreds of other talented designers, that was an incredibly validating experience. I constantly reminded myself of that fact and leaned on my support system in those moments.”
Describe the collection’s aesthetic in 3 words!
@looksbynaheemah: “Sporty, chic, streetwear.”
How do you hope consumers will style and wear the different pieces?
@looksbynaheemah: “I hope they feel free to style the pieces in whatever way speaks to them. The collection was designed to allow for customization and expression. They go so well together but there are endless possibilities once you mix n match with pieces you already own. BUT if you need styling inspiration, visit my Tiktok where I’m showing how I style this collection in addition to dropping more collection insights @naheemahazordesigns.”
You are a full-time designer, often exceeding the work limits of most people. Where does your energy to create reach its pinnacle?
@looksbynaheemah: “I have always been a night owl, so I draw so much energy to create and come up with my best ideas in the middle of the night.”
How do you stay so motivated and positive?
@looksbynaheemah: “I would be lying if I said this wasn’t a challenge especially considering the current climate of the world. I really cling to the small wins, whether it be a sunny day (which is rare in Portland, OR) or a good movie. When big things like this collection I put so much of myself into finally launches, this definitely keeps me motivated to keep going and create more.”
What’s next for you, professionally?
@looksbynaheemah: “I recently started wardrobe styling and have had so much fun helping women find their personal style. I would love to continue doing that and expanding into influencers and eventually celebrities as well. Design always comes first so I will continue to create and advocate for women, sustainability, and bodies of all shapes and sizes whether I’m creating apparel and/or accessories.”
What’s next for you, personally?
@looksbynaheemah: “I recently got my passport so travel is on my mind. I’m planning my first international trip which I’m sure will be a great source of inspiration for my next collection. Stay tuned!”
Anything else you’d like to add?
@looksbynaheemah: “I’m currently accepting clients for custom 1:1 designs. So if you have a special occasion where you need a gown, have a concert look in mind, etc be sure to visit my website naheemahazor.com for more details.”
Naheemah Azor has designed a dynamic Spring 2024 collection for SWDC x Nike, which captures Serena Williams' powerful and trailblazing spirit. The collection features bold colors, empowering silhouettes, and functional yet stylish performance pieces. Each piece in the collection seamlessly blends sport and style, highlighting Naheemah's ability to push boundaries yet stay true to house codes. Certainly after this launch, Naheemah Azor is one of the young designers to watch and we’re looking forward to seeing what she creates next.
For Naheemah and the entire SWDC 3.0 cohort, this launch represents much more than just another iteration of the design crew. The collection is an ode to the city of Los Angeles, which has been created through creativity, inclusion, and unstoppable ambition.
We would love to hear from you! Which piece from the SWDC x Nike Spring '24 collection is your favorite? Please feel free to comment here or reach out to us through socials.
Works Cited
Azor, Naheemah. Personal Interview. April 9, 2024.